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When I originally designed my poker tables, I used the same construction methods found in
commercial casino tables.

More specifically;

-On my tables, the padded rail (bumper) is a completely separate piece that has a sturdy wood frame
to which I apply foam and vinyl/leather to. It simply slips over the outside edge of the table and is
held firmly in place by a tight friction fit. You would never know that it wasn't mechanically attached.
-The dining top is also a separate piece and fits over the poker table after you have removed the
padded rail (bumper). It is held in place by both a friction fit and its weight ~75 lbs. I choose this
design in part because it provides a proportional poker/ dining table with out having to sacrifice size
or skimping on construction methods. I didn't want my tables to look like a pancake on top of a table
base when viewed from the side profile.

Some of the design benefits:
1. In order to have sturdy table that doesn't move, it needs a solid surface to rest on, and with my
design, it rests on the wood chip rail as apposed to other table manufactures that have their tables
rest on the padded rail. I have never felt that having an adequately constructed dining top resting on
foam is an acceptable method of support, certainly not long term. 2. With my design, the height of
both the poker table and the dining top is almost the same whereas with a dining top that fits over the
entire table there would be a noticeable height difference unless you made the dining top quite thin or
the padded rail (bumper) low or both.
3. I make my padded rails (bumper) quite large with a cross section of a little more than 6" (at least
double what you will find on designs similar to mine) and I also upholster around the side for added
comfort.

Obviously the tradeoff with my tables is that you will have to store the padded rail(bumper) when
poker table is functioning as a dining room table, but it stores easily in a closet or under a bed.